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John Dyer
Poet, Itinerant Painter & Reverend
1700-1757
part 2b
This page
8. Weaving & Knitting
9. The Wool Trade
10. Wool Staplers
11. Textile Manufacturing
12. Machinery & Jobs
13. Merchant's Marks
14. East India Company
15. The Staple
Previous page
1. The Wool Industry (2a)
2. Sheep Sheering (2a)
3. Fleece of all Kinds (2a)
4. The Sheepdog (2a)
5. The Shepherd (2a)
6. Sheep Stuff (2a)
7. Cave Finds (2a)
8. Weaving & Knitting
9. The Wool Trade
10. Wool Staplers
11. Textile Manufacturing
12. Machinery & Jobs
13. Merchant's Marks
14. East India Company
15. The Staple
Previous page
1. The Wool Industry (2a)
2. Sheep Sheering (2a)
3. Fleece of all Kinds (2a)
4. The Sheepdog (2a)
5. The Shepherd (2a)
6. Sheep Stuff (2a)
7. Cave Finds (2a)
Weaving & Knitting
AMONG the ancient Egyptians, who were so celebrated for their fine linen, spinning was a domestic occupation common to all ranks of society; and, in our own country (Britain 1848), up to a very recent period, the spinning-wheel was an ordinary piece of domestic furniture. The term "spinster," applied to unmarried females, shows how universal was the employment of preparing thread or yarn for the weaver.
The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/The_useful_art A Roman writer, quoted by Hollinshed, says, “The wool of Britain is Often spun so fine that it is, in a manner, comparable to the spider’s thread”
The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 Among the ancient Greets and Romans, weaving was not only a distinct trade, carried on by a separate class of
persons, but every considerable domestic establishment in the country contained a loom, together with the whole apparatus necessary for the working of wool. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 The origins of weaving project
The development of weaving forms part of the 'human revolution' in the Upper Palaeolithic. https://www.arch.cam.ac.uk/research/projects/weaving The art of weaving was probably known before that of
spinning; rushes, straws, grasses, and the fibrous parts of plants, would furnish materials for a kind of matting such as is manufactured at the present day by many rude nations. The twisting or spinning of fibrous substances so as to form continuous and unbroken threads seems to belong to a somewhat advanced state of civilization. Indeed, from an expression of the inspired writer, it would seem that the art of spinning required no common skill, for we read (Exodus xxxv. 25,) that "all the women that were wise hearted did spin with their hands." The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 The room of the Hindoo weaver at the present day (1848) illustrates the most ancient method of weaving among oriental nations. It consists of two bamboo rollers, one for the warp, and another for the woven cloth; and a pair of healds for parting the warp. The shuttle resembles a large netting needle, and is rather longer than the intended breadth of the cloth: it is also used as a lay or batten for driving home the weft.
Handspinning Flax
https://joyofhandspinning.com/flax/ Wool Spinning for beginners. https://www.auntjenny.com.au/blogs/news/wool-spinning Spinning Yarn https://www.instructables.com/id/spinning-yarn/ The Hindoo weaver carries this rude apparatus to any tree which may afford shade; here he digs a hole large enough to receive his legs, and the treadles; he then stretches his warp by fastening two bamboo rollers at a proper distance from each other with pins into the turf; the heddles he fastens to some convenient branch of the tree overhead, or to a bamboo rod,.....he inserts his great toes into two loops, which serve for treadles, and thus raises the alternate threads of the warp, draws the weft, and then strikes it close up to the web with his long shuttle....In some parts of India, as on the banks of the Ganges' the weavers work under the covers of their sheds, fixing ...their looms to a bamboo in the roof... The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 A similar practice is observed in Ceylon, weavers drive four rude posts into the ground,.....The breast-beam has a groove cut into it for.. fixing the end of the web in, but by filling it with water it serves as a level. The mode of levelling the two beams with each other, is by placing a slip of the rind of a plantain tree upon them, and, pouring, water upon the centre. any inclination is thus easily and accurately ascertained. A hole is dug between the four pot is for the feet of the weaver,..sitting upon its edge...
The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 The weaver was assisted by a pirn-winder (see pic above), whose implements were also very rude (crude). The weft, which was made up in hanks or skeins, was brought in a leaf, and was wringing wet with paste. The winder kept five or six pirns only ahead of the weaver; but whenever a thread of the web broke, it was his duty to get up and tie it; and, indeed, he had to do every thing out of the reach of the weaver, who could not get out of his hole without unshipping the breast-beam. Thus they went on very sociably together, always working, chewing betel, and conversing.....The yarn is spun by women with the distaff.
The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 Boiled rice is applied to yarn, by means of a rag, to make the warp very coarse
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The skins of animals and the wool of sheep were probably the earliest substances used for clothing. The art of spinning and weaving wool, seems to have been known in the time of Moses, 14th–13th century bc, or even before.
“The wool of Britain is Often spun so fine that it is, in a manner, comparable to the
spider’s thread” The term "spinster," applied to unmarried females, shows how universal was the employment of preparing thread or yarn
for the weaver The most famous 'Spinster', is of course, 'Sleeping Beauty'
Bros' 'Grimm', is an unfortunate name for children's stories
Charles Perrault's 1697 title of- 'Tales of Mother Goose', has a story behind it.
Like any old wive's tale, it has an essence of truth in it, Mother Goose was real!
In Short-
MOTHER GOOSE- is not an imaginary personage, as is commonly supposed. She was born, lived, and died at a good old age in Boston , Massachusetts. But wait, there's more, there's another one!
The same book mentions again in the preface- It is a singular fact, that, in 1697, 22 years before the Melodies were given to the world by Fleet, — Charles Perrault...
published ...a collection of fairy tales, under the title of 'Tales of my Mother Goose'. The coincidence, though very curious, seems to have been purely accidental. Perrault's reason for this title is explained by Collin de Plancy: "King Robert II of France took to wife his relative Bertha, but was commanded by Pope Gregory V to relinquish her, with seven years' penance. Being excommunicated for disobeying the command, and his kingdom laid under an interdict, everybody forsook him except two servants. Not long after, his wife having had a baby, a lusus naturæ (freak of nature), somewhat resembling a deformed duck, or, a goose, and declared it to be his offspring. The king, struck with horror, repudiated Bertha, and married another woman. Bertha herself, had one foot shaped like a goose, and was named, 'Bertha with the great foot', ‘Goose-footed Bertha’ and 'Queen Goose' .The French have a proverbial saying that any incredible tale, belonging to the time of Queen Bertha, they call such a tale 'one of Queen Goose's, or 'Mother Goose's stories'."...... |
Betel nut is the seed of the fruit of the areca palm. It is also known as areca nut....Betel nut is a stimulant drug, which means it speeds up the messages travelling between the brain and the body. Usual method of using betel nut is sliced into thin strips & rolled in a betel leaf with lime powder or crushed seashells.
https://adf.org.au/drug-facts/betel-nut/ |
Platting approaches nearer to weaving, because the fibres are regularly interlaced; but they are not previously drawn out or twisted into thread, as is the case in weaving. The South Sea Islanders, and others...from the remotest antiquity have made basket-work, mats, cloaks, sails, and many other articles, by crossing and interlacing long strips of leaves, straws, bark, &c.
Felting is a still nearer approach to weaving, the fibres being previously spun or twisted into threads. In netting, the threads or cords are tied into hard knots where they cross, so that each mesh is incapable of enlargement or diminution. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 The Betel nut probably kept them awake?
it would've been a very boring job |
Knitting, is said to have been invented
in Scotland about the year 1500 http://kilchoan.blogspot.com/2014/10/a-skein Skene of wool or
Ball of yarn? A Skein of wool, is yarn wound into a ball
Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, hemp, or other materials to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or felting.
Did you know that the word 'Skein' has more meanings?
1. a length of yarn or thread wound on a reel or swift preparatory for use in manufacturing. 2. anything wound in or resembling such a coil: a skein of hair. 3. something suggestive of the twistings of a skein: an incoherent skein of words. 4. a flock of geese, ducks, or the like, in flight, (including swans) 5. a succession or series of similar or interrelated things: a skein of tennis victories etc The word 'Skein', was first recorded in 1400–50; late Middle English skeyne, skayne, from Middle French escaigne; further origin unknown https://www.dictionary.com/browse/skein A few accepted bird group names:
A charm of hummingbirds or goldfinches; a staring of owls; a covey of quail; a chattering of starlings; a party or band of jays. a wedge of swans; a raft of ducks (on open water appearing as a solid body) a host of sparrows; a flight of swallows; an exaltation of larks; a rabble of butterflies; a cloud of gnats. a murder of crows https://www.startribune.com/about-those-geese Nothing to do with knitting, but what is the difference between a Crow, a Raven,
or a Blackbird? Crows have straight tails and arched beaks,
Blackbirds have tapered tails and small beaks. Ravens are similar to crows, only larger, 56 – 78 cm Who knew?
Bye, Bye Blackbird - Gene Austin (1926)
3:01 Paul McCartney - Blackbird singing in the dead of the night (Live Version fom 70's)
2:21 Cat Stevens - Morning Has Broken
3:16 |
Knitting is a modern art, said to have been invented
in Scotland about the year 1500...a mode of weaving adapted to....small articles of dress; and the whole of the required apparatus can be ..held in the hands of the knitter. The essential distinction between knitting and weaving is, that in the former, one thread is employed...he thread being passed at each stitch,...a succession of loops is produced in successive rows, and the loops of each row are drawn through the loops of a former row. This is the principle of stocking knitting, in which the whole fabric consists of one continuous thread. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 escaigne meant “a hank of yarn.”
https://www.publicationcoach.com/skein/
Yet another meaning-
They played an Italian game called escaigne , in which a large inflated ball was hit by a bat shaped like a stool with legs filled with lead. Renaissance Warrior and Patron, The Reign of Francis I By R. J. Knecht · 1994 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Renaissance Escaigne , s. A sort of brassart, from the Latin scammum, bench which we use in the game which took its name and which we play ... a ball full of wind,... Historical dictionary of the old French language..Vol 5 1878 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Dictionnaire A murder of crows
This more poetic term for a flock of crows can be traced back at least to the 15th century, when it was recorded as a murther of crowes. Murther is a variant of Middle English murthre 'murder,'...There are several theories as to how this particular term came about, but all of them have to do with the supposed behavior of crows. For instance, crows are scavengers and therefore often seen feeding on rotting bodies of various sorts. Survivors of wars have described how the battlefields were covered in black, as crows (and ravens) came down to eat the dead. Another theory..... crows essentially holding court over members of their flock that had committed offenses. If they decide against the "defendant" crow, then the rest of the flock swoops down on it and kills it. There are legends.. that relate to crows being......an omen of death. further reading... https://word-ancestry.livejournal.com/58301.html Back to Knitting
Old Knitting Books The Ladies' Companion 1858
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=gLIRAAAAYAAJ& The lady's assistant, for executing useful and fancy designs in knitting ...By Jane Gaugain 1847 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=4mYDAAAAQA Mee's Companion to the work-table, containing selections in knitting ...By Cornelia Mee 1844 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=nOkDAAAAQ The ladies' knitting & netting book By Miss Watts 1840 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=8OcDAAA My knitting book 1843 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=gesDAAAAQA Knitting, crochet, and netting By Eléonore Riego de la Branchardière 1846 https://books.google.com.au/books?id The Useful Knitting Book 1864 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=lrFbAAAAcAAJ& The Lady's Knitting-Book. Third Series. By E. M. C., Author Of' The Lady's ...By E. M. C. 1875 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=BdkTfSCI7Z4C The Peterson Magazine, Volumes 51-52 1867 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=Gcc6A The Ladies' Companion 1862 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=prQRA Godey's Lady's Book, Volume 77 1830 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=50okAQAA Bow Bells Vol 8 1868 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=9s4aAQA |
The Wool Trade
It is generally believed that the name Woolwich derives from an Anglo-Saxon word meaning "trading place for wool". It is not clear whether Woolwich was a proper -wich town, since there are no traces of extensive artisanal activity from the Early Middle Ages.
However, in 2015 Oxford Archaeology discovered a Saxon burial site near the riverside with 76 skeletons from the late 7th or early 8th century. The absence of grave deposits indicates that this was an early Christian settlement Rectors of Woolwich from 1182 Gairloch- The principal TRADE carried on here, and to which the town owes its importance, is the woollen manufacture, which has been gradually brought to a very high state of perfection: the articles produced are, narrow fancy cloths of various quality, known in the market as “tweeds” Saxony-wool tartan, shawls, and plaids. The narrow cloths vary in price from twenty to eighty pence per yard, the 4 tartan cloakings from two to nine shillings per yard, and the shawls, which are in high esteem for their texture and for the richness and variety of their colours, from three to thirty shillings each. There are eleven factories in the town, and a twelfth is about to be erected; they are all dependent on water-power, except two, which have the aid of steam, and the spindles now number 17,000, and the looms 563, affording together employment to 1400 persons.
*Gairloch is a village, civil parish and community on the shores of Loch Gairloch in Wester Ross, in the North-West Highlands of Scotland A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland: From Abbey to Jura. By Samuel Lewis 1846 books.google.com.au/books?A+Topographical History of the Wool Industry in England, the Yorkshire West Riding and Pudsey & Halifax.
http://www.themeister.co.uk/hindley/wool.htm The English Wool Trade in the Middle Ages By T. H. Lloyd
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=u6d-s9_7yOM A Country Merchant, 1495-1520: Trading and Farming at the End of the Middle Ages By Christopher Dyer
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=lQFQxHJNayYC |
THE STORY OF THE COTSWOLD WOOL TRADE By Francis Duckworth, 1908. In one sense the wool trade is the key to the whole of English history in the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries. It determined the relations of this country with Continental Powers, particularly with Flanders, and it provided sinews for the Hundred Years' War. With regard to the Cotswolds in particular, it explains the presence of noble churches and admirable private houses. The history of the wool trade may be divided into two stages. In the first of these the whole of our wool was exported to Flanders, and since we alone produced wool, and wool was a necessity, we could impose any export duty we pleased. This is the period in which Chipping Campden and Northleach were built, and Cirencester began to regain something of its old importance. Their beautiful churches they owed to the piety of their richer citizens, chiefly wool merchants....On the whole, the period from 1650 to 1750 was fairly In Bastard's Chrestoleros (1598) is: "sheep have eat up our meadows and our downs, Our corn, our wood, whole villages and towns. Yea, they have eat up many wealthy men. Besides our widows and orphan children. Besides our statutes and our iron laws, Which they have swallowed down into their maws. Till now I thought the proverb did but jest Which said a black sheep was a biting beast." archive.org/9/items/.pdf A Demesne farmer, tendered a piece of land attached to a manor and retained by the owner for their own use. Manorial land actually possessed by the lord and not held by tenants
The method of wholesale contracts between grower and exporter was, however, only suitable for dealing with the large-scale production of the great estates. It was quite unsuitable for dealing with that of the small producers, whose wool had to be gathered from their farms all over the countryside. Some of these could dispose of their produce in fairs and markets, but there was also in existence in the thirteenth century a regular mechanism for collecting it. The wool thus collected was known in the technical terminology of the trade as collecta, and always carefully distinguished from abbey wool. The collection was made by three distinct methods: by the employment of agents, by contracts with landlords, by purchase from middlemen. Exporters could employ agents, foreign or English, to go round the farms wool-gathering. But more interesting and characteristic of this age of large-scale production was the collection by landlords. The big landowners themselves often contracted with exporters to supply not only the production of their own demesne but so many sacks from their district. Simply, great lords, abbots, and demesne farmers became ‘unprofessional’ middlemen between exporters and small farmers.
The Wool Trade In English Medieval History mcmaster.ca/econ/ugcm/3ll3/power/WoolTrade.pdf Illustrations of Useful Arts, Manufactures, and Trades By Charles Tomlinson 1860
https://archive.org/details/illustrationsofu00toml The Wealth of England: The Medieval Wool trade and Its Political Importance ...By Susan Rose
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=pi1lDwAAQ |
Sheep St. (Oxfordshire) was an alternative name for St. John the Baptist's St., because the priory had plenty of sheep.
The History & Antiquities of Bicester, a market Town in Oxfordshire 1816
books/edition/The_History_and_Antiquities_of_Bicester There was a Sheep Street Market for sheep and cattle, in Bicester, Oxfordshire
Sheep St., had some unusual Traders (below)
What is an Animal Painter? Think literally!, Someone who paints portraits etc., of Animals What's a Paperhanger, or Paperbanger?
Think literally again! Someone who hangs, Wallpaper There are quite a few Women Traders
in Sheep Street, but the one that stands out, is- Mrs Eleanor Wakelin, plumber, glazier & tin plate worker |
Sheep St. was an alternative name for St. John the Baptist's St. at least by 1660: The priory was given land in Crockwell for a sheepfold in c. 1220.....Weekly Bread was being distributed for many years before 1796 by the owners of property in St. John's Street (i.e. Sheep Street). In 1824 the owner nominated six poor widows of Market End to receive a 2d. loaf each every Sunday.
https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/oxon/vol6/pp14-56 The Life of Joseph Wolf, Animal Painter
By Alfred Herbert Palmer · 1895google.com.au/books/edition/The_Life_of_Joseph_Wolf What about a Cutler?
Someone who sells, or makes, Cutlery Or, a Tallow Chandler?
The Tallow Chandlers Company, formed in c 1300 to regulate oils, ointments, lubricants and fat-based preservatives, also, to manage candle making using tallow (animal fats) https://www.tallowchandlers.org/about-us/our-history The Worshipful Company of Tallow Chandlers is one of the ancient livery companies of the
City of London. |
Who lived in the same street, as your Ancestor?
Find out, from a Census, or Directory |
TRADERS.
Ashby Eliza (Mrs.), clothier, Sheep street Baker Thomas, shopkeeper, Sheep street Barrett Robert, rope & sack maker, Sheep street Bennett William, baker, Sheep street Biggs Joseph, shopkeeper, Sheep street Bonham Thomas, butcher, Sheep street Bowerman John, paperhanger, Sheep street Bradbury William, baker, Sheep street Bucknell William, butcher Sheep street Burnham Ann (Mrs), 'White Hart' Sheep street Casemore Joseph, shoemaker, Sheep street Coleman Ann (Mrs) grocer & tallow chandler Sheep street Cooky John, tailor, Sheep street Facey William, blacksmith, Sheep street Franklin Simeon, carrier, Sheep street George Henry, tailor, Sheep street Gessey William, 'Bell' Sheep street Grimsley William, builder, Sheep street Harper Sarah (Mrs). Plough, Sheep street Harris Elizabeth (Miss), market gardener, Sheep street Harris James, coal merchant, Sheep street Harris John, road contractor and farmer, Sheep street Haynes Edgar, 'White Lion' Sheep street Hedges Joseph. agent to the London & North Western Railway Co. Sheep street Hitchman Robert, 'Wheatsheaf,' Sheep street Hitchman William, linen draper, wine, spirit & hop merchant, Sheep street Horwood William, gardener & seedsman, Sheep street Hudson John, beer retailer, Sheep street Jackson Charles, butcher, Sheep street Jackson Thomas, cutler, Sheep street Jones John, baker, Sheep street King Henry, Crown commercial inn & animal painter, Sheep street |
Jones William, baker, Sheep street
Kirby George, solicitor, Sheep street Lindsey Frederick Henry, clerk to the union, Sheep street Mills Francis Burton, solicitor, Sheep street Moore George, solicitor, Sheep street Morris Elisabeth (Mrs.), baker, Sheep street Moulding William, shoemaker, Sheep street Osmond George, solicitor, Sheep street Palmer John David, ironmonger, Sheep street Paxton George, coal merchant, Sheep street Paxton Jonas, auctioneer, Sheep street Roberts George, 'Bear' Sheep street Robinson George, 'Angel' carpenter & joiner, Sheep street Sandiland Robert Burgess, chemist & druggist, Sheep st Shillingford & Phillips, brewers, Sheep street Shrowesbury Sarah (Mrs.), dressmaker, Sheep street Sparrow William, brewer & yeast dealer, Sheep street Sparshatt Frederick, hatter, Sheep street Tebby George, grocer, Sheep street Thomas William, plasterer, Sheep street Thorn Elizabeth (Mrs.), shopkeeper, Sheep street Tompkins John, Saddler, Sheep street Truby Thomas, general dealer, Sheep street Wakelin Eleanor (Mrs.), plumber, glazier & tin plate worker, Sheep street Walter Thomas, carpenter & Joiner, Sheep street Welch James, builder Sheep street Whale William & James, wheelwrights, Sheep street White Fanny (Mrs.), shoe warehouse, Sheep street Wilkins Thomas, blacksmith. Sheep street Williams Charles, 'Royal Oak,' Sheep street Above names from the following directory-
Post Office Directory of Berkshire, Northamptonshire, Oxfordshire; Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire & Huntingdonshire. 1854 books/edition/Post_office_directory_of_Berkshire_North |
What's the difference between
a Gravestone & a Tombstone? Originally, a tombstone was the stone lid of a stone coffin, or coffin itself, a gravestone was the stone slab that was laid over a grave. wiki |
More Records showing 'Sheep Streets'
The register of electors to vote in the choice of ... members to serve in parliament for the county of Oxford
By Oxford county 1844 books/edition/The_register_of_electors_to_vote Melville and Co.'s Directory of Northamptonshire
Containing a Descriptive Account of Each City, Town, and Village, Followed by a Directory By Melville and Co 1861 books/edition/MelvilleandCo_Directory_of_Northampt Journal of the Northamptonshire Natural History Society and Field Club Volume 2 1883
books/edition/Journal_of_the_Northamptonshire_Natural The Post office Kelly's directory of chemists and druggists, chemical industries. 1st-20th 1885
The_Post_office_afterw_Kelly_s_directory/ The register of electors to vote in the choice of ... members to serve in parliament for the county of Oxford. (Banbury division). By Oxford county · 1845
The_register_of_electors_to_vote |
Wool Staplers
'Wool delivered at the king's beam', which refers to the Great Beam housed in Cornhill that was used by London merchants to weigh heavy commodities." Dyer
All non-freemen had to weigh their goods at one of the beams before selling them in the City, for which a toll was payable. There were two main beams, the great beam at Cornhill, and the iron beam at the Steelyard by the river. The beams were probably mainly used by non-Londoners bringing produce to the capital for sale, although London merchants who were not freemen also used them....In 1681 the great beam was described as the main market for hops in Londonbooks/edition/The_Impact_of_the_English_Civil_War
There was indeed a company of merchants under a mayor at Antwerp, but the name staple does not occur so early. The enforced staple was introduced by Edward II in 1313; English and foreign merchants must now ship staple goods to trade places abroad recognized by the organization of the staple merchants controlled by its mayor. These merchants in Zeeland were Londoners, and we know that the Merchant Adventurers had their origin in London.
Zeeland is the westernmost and least populous province of the Netherlands.
The name "New Zealand" comes from “Zeeland” (which translates to "Sealand") in Dutch, after the islands were seen by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman. Zeeland is a province of the Netherlands.
https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Zealand Medieval overseas trade in wool, was conducted by the Company of merchants of the Staple, who were granted a monopoly by Edward III in the 1340's. Exports were taxed, and trade was strictly controlled by exporting all wool through the 'Staple port' of Calais, which was under English at that time. The Merchants of the Staple, in turn, sourced their wool from local merchants known as woolmen............
The Wool Inheritance northleach.org/the-wool-inheritance-northleach-church The Company of Merchants of the Staple is one of the oldest mercantile corporations in England.
The Company of Merchants of the Staple is one of the oldest mercantile corporations in England. It is rare, possibly unique, in being ‘of England‘ and not bounded by any city or municipality. It may trace its ancestry back as far as 1282 or even further. A group of 26 wool merchants apparently first started the Company. The Dukes of Burgundy and Counts of Flanders granted it charters. The Merchants were in Bruges in 1282, Dordrecht in 1285, Antwerp in 1296 and St Omer in 1313.
merchants of the staple of england The Company controlled the export of wool to the continent from 1314. The Duke of Flanders awarded a grant to the English Merchants in 1341. Its first charter from an English monarch was in 1347 giving it control of the export trade in staple commodities. Commercial significance was in Calais – under English rule from 1347 and the main port for wool. Exports were restricted to the Freemen of the Company who, in return for their monopoly, paid a levy back to the Crown. With some two hundred merchants, in 1363 it was known as the “New Company of English Merchants dwelling nowe at Calais” and in 1369 as “The Mayor and Company of the Staple at Calais“. The Company later paid for and eventually managed the garrison in the city.
merchants of the staple of england The Right Worshipful Company of the Merchants of the Staple continued to manage the supply of wool to the clothing industry right up to the industrial revolution, which brought problems of supply and a decline in influence. merchants of the staple of england
In the 19th century, the Merchant Staplers still owned considerable property and survived within a strong family basis. The Company intervened in the wool industry on standards for wool winding. It met twice a year (usually April and August) in London including at the Albion Tavern in Aldersgate and the London Tavern, in Greenwich at the Trafalgar Hotel and the Crown & Sceptre, and in Richmond at the Star & Garter. There were only 10 members in 1923 and a meeting on 29th June 1927 suspended the Company’s operations. However, the Charter was not relinquished and a revival came in 1948 from a small group including two original members. There was then a steady increase to 120 members by 2015. The Company has a Charitable Trust with an increasing number of grants to the wool and textile industry.
https://merchantsofthestapleofengland.co.uk/ Records of the Company of the Merchants of the Staple of England
https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/ 1248 Antwerp, first known staple town – rights granted by John, Duke of Brabant to the Confraternity of St Thomas a Becket (English traders – predecessors of both the Merchant Staplers and Merchant Adventurers)
In English ports, a Mayor of the Staple
was appointed The ordinance 1353, later confirmed in Parliament, introduced an entirely new conception of the office of the Mayor of the Staple. The compulsory marts in which the chief export wares had to be sold were then fixed in English ports, at each of which a Mayor of the Staple was appointed. Until then the Staples had only been fixed in English ports for two very brief periods, from the Kenilworth Ordinance of May 1326 to August 1328, and from September 1332 to February 1334, subject to interruptions owing to the needs of Royal finance: otherwise, from 1313 to 1326 and from 1340 to 1353, the Staple had been fixed in a Netherlands town.
https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/cambridge Woolstaplers Way is in the London region of England. The postcode, within the Grange ward/electoral division, the constituency of Bermondsey and Old Southwark.
Woolstaplers Way Bermondsey
https://www.streetlist.co.uk/se/se16/se16-3/woolstaplers London (Bermondsey), 1842 By Charles Knight https://books.google.com.au/books?id=TOBkAwAAQBAJ The Woolstaplers Hall is a 14th-c stone building in which wool merchants once graded the fleeces of Cotswold Sheep.
britain.com/gloucestershire/chipping-campden Woolstaplers Hall, Cotswold
The fourteenth century Woolstaplers Hall in the Cotswold town of Chipping Campden, GloucestershireEnglish wool was supplied by a stapler, often working in London. The staple is the length of one fibre when pulled out of the fleece. Spanish wool, with a finer staple, was being sold by the 1680's and took over from English fleece. http://www.chippingcampdenhistory.org.uk/
Guilds, Wool, and Trade: Medieval England in a Global Economy | World History Project 9:29
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As a clerical author,
Bishop Hall of Norwich, the poet and satirist, observed in 1612: “There were wont to be reckoned three wonders of England, ecclesia, foemina, lana--churches, women and wool.” Churches and Wool: A Study of the Wool Trade in 15th Century England historytoday.com/archive/churches-and-wool-study Trade between England and the Low Dutch lands
‘Flemish Hanse of London’. ...Important to note that export licences were sometimes granted to Englishmen and Zeelanders in partnership. There is evidence that Hollanders and Zeelanders were taking part in the export coal trade as early as 1352. http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/llew001infl01_01/ “Staple” The word, in its primary use, appears to have meant a particular port or other place to which certain commodities were obliged to be brought to be weighed or measured for the payment of the customs, before they could be sold, or in some cases exported or imported. Here the king’s staple was said to be established. The articles of English produce upon which customs were anciently paid were wool, sheep-skins (or woolfels), and leather; and these were accordingly denominated the staples or staple goods of the kingdom. The persons who exported these goods were called the Merchants of the Staple: they were incorporated, or at least recognized as forming a society with certain privileges, in the reign of Edward II, if not earlier.
books/edition/The_History_of_British_Commerce Very many names were borrowed from Low Dutch for the various commodities which were handled in the course of trade. The most numerous are names for kinds of cloth.
Terms of the itinerant trade- Hawker (1510), a man who goes from place to place selling his goods or who cries them in the street; apparently ad. MLG. hoker, LG. höker (Du. heuker), higgler, hawker, huckster. Pawn (for the Sc. form pand, first recorded in a non-Eng. context in a Charter of David I, c. 1145), a pledge, surety;.. Ledger (1481), a book that lies permanently in some place;....ligger and legger, from leggen, to lie;... Swindler (1775), originally a cant word said to have been introduced into London by German Jews about 1762, and to have been used in literature first by Lord Mansfield; ad. G. schwindler or Du. zwendelaar, an extravagant projector, esp. in money matters, a cheat... Galyor (c. 1515) occurs once in Cock Lorell's Book; possibly this is Du. gleyer, a dealer in earthenware brought in galleys, a galleyman. http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/llew001infl01_01/ A Big part of Trade, was, Money!
The extensive trade in England by Flemish and other alien merchants in the 14th century seems to have led to the export of the better coins of England, and the import of light and debased coins, among them those known by the names of Brabant and Lushburg. These coins appear to have been made of a white metal which resembled silver. A pound weight of Lushburgs was worth only eight shillings. In 1343 a gold coin for currency in England as well as Flanders was struck in conjunction with the people of Flanders, but bad foreign money continued to find its way into England. Edward III & his queen kept court at Louvain in the winter of 1338 and caused a large quantity of gold and silver coins to be struck at Antwerp.
http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/llew001infl01_01/ The Early Dated Coins of Europe, 1234-1500
By Robert A. Levinson · 2007 (preview) books/edition/The_Early_Dated_Coins_of_Europe COINS
Lushburg (1346), a base coin made in imitation of the silver or sterling penny and imported from Luxemburg in the reign of Edward III; it is the anglicized form of Luxemburg. Brabant (c. 1350), a base coin of Flemish manufacture circulated in England in the 13th century; from the name of the Duchy of Brabant. Mite (c. 1350), originally a Flemish coin of very small value, a third of a penny; its first occurrence in English is in a proverbial expression ‘not worth a mite’.... Groat (1351), though the first mention refers to the English groat coined in 1351-2 and worth fourpence, and the word is used for the Flemish groat first in 1387, the adoption of the Dutch or Flemish form of the word shows that the groat of the Low Countries had circulated here before a coin of that denomination was issued by the English sovereigns;.... Seskyn (1413), a Dutch coin of the value of six mites;.... Dodkin (1415), an early name for the doit, a small Dutch coin;.... Dollar (1553), appears in English in the 16th century in the forms daler, daller;...A particular kind of dollar is the Rix-dollar (1598), a silver coin current from the later part of the 16th century to the middle of the 19th century in Holland, Germany, Sweden, and Austria, in their commerce with the East;... http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/llew001infl01_01/ Finance and money-lending are closely connected with the general practice of trade, and Low Dutch merchants and traders in England seem to have engaged largely in this profitable sideline.
http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/llew001infl01_01/ The History of British Commerce From the Earliest Times · Volume 1 By George Lillie Craik 1844· books/edition/The_History_of_British_Commerce
What is High Dutch?
High Dutch, also called 'High German' referred to people from the mountainous area of what is now southern Germany. This also helps explain why Germany is called Deutschland in German. dictionary.com What is Low Dutch?
Low Dutch, referred to people from the flatlands in what is now the Netherlands. https://www.dictionary.com/e/demonym/ What is Double Dutch?
Double Dutch is not a real language, but said in reference to a language that is hard to understand- "He's speaking Double Dutch to me, when he talks about computer programming", the same as "It's all Greek to me". In other words, I can't understand what you're saying. There were once, three forms of German: Low German, spoken in the flat lowlands, Central German and High German spoken in the mountainous areas. Old Dutch was spoken in parts of the Lower Rhine and Westphalia regions of Germany. The British apparently in the 1800's, referred to this mix up of languages, as Double Dutch, as they found it extremely hard to understand. Earlier in the 1700's, it was known as High Dutch and still incomprehensible. *Wool staplers and wool classers
*Ross-on-WyeThe Wool Staplers A Brief History *John & William Emmet Woolstaplers *Will of Edwarde Flyer, Merchant of the Staple of England of Uttoxeter, Staffordshire 25 August 1596 Double Dutch Bus, Raven-Symone, College Road Trip
3:18 *The Staple Trades of the Empire
*The Provincial Guilds of Great Britain, Ireland & USA *Recognizance in the nature of Statute Merchant/Staple *The estate of merchants, 1336-1365: IV - 1355-65 Mercantilism in England * Woolstaplers, National Archives * Insured: Samuel Jackson and Co. 103 Bermondsey Street fellmongers and woolstaplers, National Archives * The Brasses of England Wool Staplers * The Staple Court Wolverhampton Reporter Discussion-Decline of The Australian Rag Trade 2:08
The livery companies of the City of London, currently 110 in number, comprise London's ancient and modern trade associations and guilds, almost all of which are styled the "Worshipful Company of….
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livery_company Livery Companies of the City of London http://liverydatabase.liverycompanies.info/ The term 'Livery' used to mean the allowance of food and clothing (Living) to retainers and officers of great households, colleges or crafts and the wealthier merchants' guilds, but gradually came to be restricted to the wearing of distinctive clothing as a symbol of privilege and protection by which the allegiance of the wearer could be recognised.
The Origins of the Livery Companies The Worshipful Company of Coopers coopers-hall.co.uk/history/the-origins-of-the-livery-co |
Textile Manufacturing
The first express mention of the sheep in this country (England) occurs in a public document of the year 712, where it is merely stated that the price of the animal was one shilling, until a fortnight after Easter. After this date, no mention is to be found of the woollen manufacture until the time of Alfred (late 800's), when the mother of that great sovereign is described as being skilled in the spinning of wool, and busied in training her daughters to the same employment. This seems to have become a common occupation among the higher classes; for at a later period, it is remarked of Edward the Elder, that being careful his children should receive a proper princely education, "he sette his sons to scole, and his doughters he set to woll-werke." Indeed, the very name by which unmarried women in England are designated,—" spinster,"—is a proof of the antiquity of this mode of employing their time.
The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson, Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 The Flemings, during the time of William the Conqueror, were skillful woollen manufacturers
Matilda, William's wife was Flemish herself The origin of the woollen manufacture as a national branch of industry is said to have arisen in the time of William the Conqueror, when a large number of the Flemings....they were skilful in the woollen manufacture,
the great staple of their country;..in every respect they were a most valuable colony....the first founders of the manufacture of fine woollens in England. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 Pembrokeshire Historical Society
Where are the Flemings? http://www.pembrokeshirehistoricalsociety.co.uk/ Henry II, granted a fair for the clothiers and dressers, to be held in the Churchyard of Bartholomew Priory, near Smithfield, for three days, which spot is still called "Cloth Fair." Towards the end of the reign of this sovereign, the woollen manufacture became widely extended over the kingdom, companies of weavers being established in Oxfordshire, Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Huntingdonshire, Lincolnshire, and Winchester, all paying fines to the king for the privilege of carrying on their manufactures, to the exclusion of all other towns. There selling dyed cloth, Henry II. gave the weavers of
London a confirmation of their guild, and in the patent directed that, if any weaver, in making cloth, mixed Spanish wool with the English, the chief magistrate of London should burn it. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 |
No mention is to be found of woollen manufacture until the time of Alfred, when his mother is described as being skilled in the spinning of wool, and busied in training her daughters to the same employment
Among the ancient Greeks & Romans the woollen manufacture had attained considerable perfection; it has been supposed that the latter people introduced it into
Britain on their conquest of the island. They seem to have established a woollen manufactory at Winchester, for supplying cloth to the Roman army; but It is not imagined that they introduced the sheep. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Theusefulart The Flemings came to settle in Britain from an area known as Flanders, in northern Belgium. Medieval Flanders was renowned for sheep rearing and weaving and had close commercial ties with England, being the chief importer of its wool
Because Flanders was a low land, disastrous flooding drove many of its people to seek homes elsewhere. Unsurprisingly, they looked to their allies across the Channel and made their appeal to Henry I, king of England.
The prosperity of the woollen trade was not destined to continue; for the troubles and wars during the reigns of John, Henry III, Edward I, and Edward II, nearly
ruined it. It was revived by Edward III. At the beginning of this reign, one John Kemp, a Flanders cloth-worker, received a licence to establish himself in this country. Accordingly he settled, with a number of dyers and fullers, at Kendal, in Westmoreland, where his name appears to this day. The cloth called 'Kendal green', afterwards became celebrated. It is mentioned by Shakespeare in his play of Henry IV. The useful arts and manufactures of Great Britain 1848 |
St. Bartholomew's day was a harvest feast for shepherds and farmers, celebrating
their flocks The origin of Bartholomew Fair was a grant from Henry I., in 1133, to a monk named Rayer, or Rahere, who had been his jester...In the first centuries of its existence the Fair was one of the great annual markets of the nation and the chief cloth fair of the kingdom. It was the great gathering in the metropolis of England, for the sale of that produce upon which England especially relied for her prosperity. Two centuries after the Conquest our wealth depended upon wool, which was manufactured in the time of Henry II., in whose days there arose guilds of weavers.
British Popular Customs,Present & Past- Thiselton-Dyer The fair was annually held at the festival of St. Bartholomew, and, like all other ancient fairs, was originally connected with the Church
Established originally for useful trading purposes, it had long survived its claim to tolerance, ..as London increased, became a great public nuisance, with its scenes of riot and obstruction in the very heart of the city
British Popular....Thiselton-Dyer |
King Henry IV, by William Shakespeare Part 1
http://shakespeare.mit.edu Henry IV, Part 2 http://shakespeare.mit.edu Historical plays believed to have been written between 1596 & 1599. The second & third part of a tetralogy (four parts), preceded by Richard II & succeeded by Henry V. wiki Kendal green
https://www.liberaldict Kendal’s famous cloth industry https://visit-kendal.co.uk Historic book was rescued from a skip The Kendal pattern book https://www.thewestmorl Re-creations from the Kendal Pattern Bookhttps://www.facebook.com
Man who captured Lakes life for four decades
https://www.cwherald.com Joseph Hardman Lakeland Photographer 1893-1972 https://www.bookscumbria Some of Joseph Hardman's photographs https://lakelandarts.org Rare Joseph Hardman pics https://www.thewestmorla Cumbria is the most north-westerly county in England, created in 1974 from Cumberland, Westmorland, and parts of Lancashire and Yorkshire.
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At the beginning of
Edward III's reign, John Kemp, a Flanders cloth-worker, received a licence to establish himself in England pic from fine art America https://fineartamerica.com/ Belgium Online Genealogy
https://www.familysearch Belgium/Flemish Library https://www.flemishlibrary Flemish genealogy http://sites.rootsweb.com Industrial history-Cumbria
https://www.cumbria-ind Cumberland and Westmorland had a 'Pals' Battalion in 1914, formed, so that locals could stay together, during WWI
The 8th Border Regiment, made of men from Keswick, Kendal, Windermere and other towns and villages from both Cumberland and Westmorland, was different from the previous two battalions insofar as it was the first 'Pals' battalion of the Regiment
8th (Service) Battalion Border Regiment https://thelonsdalebatt The Pals battalions of World War I were specially constituted battalions of the British Army comprising men who had enlisted together in local recruiting drives, with the promise that they would be able to serve alongside their friends, neighbours and colleagues, rather than being arbitrarily allocated to battalions.wiki
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All sorts of entertainment was at the Fair, Puppet Shows, Animals, Unusual acts, Theatre, Wrestling &
pickpockets had a field day!
....There never had been known a fair in Europe to which such a court was not by usage attached. Such courts were held in the markets of the Romans, which some writers regard as fairs, and in which they find the origin of modern fairs. The court of Piepowder in Bartholomew Fair, or the corresponding court in any other fair in England, had jurisdiction only in commercial questions. It could entertain a case of slander if it was slander of wares, not slander of person: not even the king, if he should sit in a court of Piepowder, could extend its powers.
British Popular Customs, Present and Past, by T.F. Thiselton-Dyer http://www.gutenberg.org/files/58809/58809-h/58809 In 1701 Bartholomew Fair was presented as a nuisance by the Grand Jury of London, and in 1750 it was reduced to its original three days. By the alteration of the calendar in 1752, the fair, in the following year, was, for the first time, proclaimed on September 3rd.
British Popular Customs..Thiselton-Dyer The Fair was discontinued after 1855, having flourished for seven and a half centuries
The Oldest House in London, is halfway down a narrow, medieval lane on the outskirts of Smithfield, numbered 41-42 Cloth Fair.
London's oldest house
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ |
In 1697, the Lord Mayor, on St. Bartholomew’s Day, published an ordinance recorded in the Postman “for the suppression of vicious practices in Bartholomew Fair, as obscene, lascivious, and scandalous plays, comedies and farces, unlawful games and interludes, drunkenness, etc., strictly charging all constables and other officers to use their utmost diligence in persecuting the same.” But there was no suppression of the puppet-theatres........It consists most of toy-shops, also fiacres and pictures, ribbon shops, no books; many shops of confectioners, where any woman may be commodiously treated. Knavery is here in perfection, dextrous cut-purses and pickpockets,..dancing on ropes.
British Popular Cust..Thiselton-Dyer Pie Powder Court- "A court incident to all fairs, held before the steward of the lord of the fair, for adjudicating on all contracts arising at the fair,"
London Past & Present, by Wheatley & Cunningham https://www.google.com.au/books/ Cloth Fair is a street in the City of London where, in medieval times, merchants gathered to buy and sell material during the Bartholomew Fair. Today, it is a short residential street to the east of Smithfield in the north-western part of the City and is located in the ward of Farringdon Within. wiki
The Oldest House in London,
by Fiona Rule This book uncovers the fascinating survival story of this extraordinary property and the people who built it, owned it and lived in it, set against the backdrop of an ever-changing city that endured war, disease, fire and economic crises. https://www.google.com.au/books/ |
During the same period as the
Bartholomew Fair In 1571 felt hats were not made in England, as a statute was then enacted which ordered an English woollen cap to be worn In preference, by every person above the age of seven, or forfeit three shillings and fourpence
WOOLLEN MANUFACTURE IN ENGLAND (15TH Century) From The Antiquary's Portfolio 1825 That the English in the fifteenth century had great abundance of excellent wool and were comfortably clothed, is certain from the testimony of Sir John Fortescue, who in proving that the English, who lived under a limited "The Labours of the Loom" monarchy, were much happier than their rivals the French, who lived under a despotic government, gives the following as an example : --
"The French weryn no wollyn, but if it be a pore cote, under their uttermost garment, made of grete canvas, and call it a frok, their hosyn be of like canvas, and passin not their knee ; wherefor they be gartered, and their thighs bare. Their wifs and children goen bare fote. But the English wear fine wooled cloth in all their apparel. They have also abundance of bedcovering in their houses, and all other woollen stuffe." It is probable, however, that Sir John speaks only of yeomen, substantial farmers, and artificers; for it appears, from an Act made in 1414 for regulating the wages and clothing of servants employed in husbandry, that their dress and furniture could hardly answer the above description. The Antiquary's Portfolio: Or Cabinet Selection of Historical & Literary ...By J. S. Forsyth 1825 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=GiI2AAAAM History of labour law in the United Kingdom
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_labour_law In 1571 felt hats were not made in England, as a statute was then enacted which ordered an English woollen cap
to be worn In preference, by every person above the age of seven, on pain of forfeiting three shillings and fourpence, lords, gentlewomen, etc., excepted. In the reign of Edward IV, a law was made respecting "apparel" and reads thus: "No servant of husbandrie, or common labourer, shall weare in their clothing any cloth whereof the broad yard shall pass the price of two shillings ; nor shall suffer their wives to weare kerchiefs whose price exceedeth twenty pence." And in Elizabeth's reign: "All persons above the age of seven years shall wear upon Sabbaths and holidays, upon their heads, a cap of wool, knit, thicked, and dressed in England, upon forfeit, for every day not wearing, 3s. and 4d." History of Great-Britain from the Death of Henry VIII. to the ..., Volume 2 By James Pettit Andrews 1796 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=WtdUAA Kilkenny, Ireland
The Woollen manufacture owes its introduction into the county to Pierce, Earl of Ormonde, who died in 1359, and his wife Margaret, who brought artists in tapestry, diaper, and carpets from Flanders; some of their tapestry is still in the castle of Kilkenny. James, Duke of Ormonde, also incurred great expense, in the middle of the 17th century, in establishing both the linen & woollen manufacture A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland Vol 2 By Samuel Lewis · 1837 Pembrokeshire, Wales
Pembrokeshire has no important manufacture. In different parts of it, however, are carried on domestic manufactures of various coarse woollen articles of clothing, which in some instances are facilitated by scattered carding machines. A Topographical Dictionary of Wales Vol 2 By Samuel Lewis · 1845 A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland:
From Abbey to Jura By Samuel Lewis 1846 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Topo A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland, Comprising the.. By Samuel Lewis Vol 2 1846 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Topo A Topographical Dictionary of England Volume 1 By Samuel Lewis 1835 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/A_Topo A Topographical Dictionary of England Volume 2 By Samuel Lewis · 1831 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/A_Topo A Topographical Dictionary of England Volume 3 By Samuel Lewis ·(no preview) A Topographical Dictionary of England... With Historical and Statistical Descriptions · Volume 4 By Samuel Lewis · 1833 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/A_Topo A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland Vol 1 By Samuel Lewis · 1840 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/A_topo A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland Vol 2 By Samuel Lewis · 1837 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/A_Topo A Topographical Dictionary of Wales Vol 1 By Samuel Lewis · (no preview) A Topographical Dictionary of Wales Vol 2 By Samuel Lewis · 1845 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/A_topo |
Sir John Mandeville's book 'The travels of John Mandeville, Knight, became very popular & circulated between
1357 & 1371 The Voyages and Travels of Sir John Mandevile, Knight: Wherein is Set Down ...By Sir John Mandeville 1705 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=6_1eAAAAc In Samuel Lewis' Topographical Dictionaries, you can read each Towns description of their manufacturing and more
Ayr, Scotland 1846
The principal manufacture carried on here, is that of shoes, which has, for some years, very much diminished, affording employment, at present, to little more than 200 persons. The working of muslins, in varieties of patterns, for the Glasgow manufacturers, is carried on to a considerable extent, occupying about 300 persons, at their own dwellings. Weaving with the hand-loom, for manufacturers of distant towns, employs about 150 persons; and tanning and currying of leather is carried on, but on a limited scale. A spacious factory for the spinning of wool and the manufacture of carpets, has been recently established by Mr. Templeton, .....at present, affords employment to 200 persons. A mill for carding, spinning, and weaving wool, for plaids and blankets, has been also erected on the bank of the river Doon; the machinery is impelled by water, and about thirty persons are regularly employed in the works. A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland: From Abbey to Jura- Samuel Lewis 1846 Chalford, Gloucester
The manufacture of woollen cloth, which is carried on to a great extent, was introduced at an early period; and in the reign of Anne there were three mills in this hamlet which retained exclusively the use of some advantageous discovery in the process of the manufacture: there are at present twelve mills in operation for the manufacture of woollen cloth, affording employment to a very large number of persons. A Topographical Dictionary of England Volume 1 By Samuel Lewis · 1835 CRANBROOKE (St. Dunstan)...KENT,
When the manufacture of woollen cloth was introduced into England by Edward III, it was principally carried on in the Weald of Kent, and Cranbrooke, situated in the centre of that district, became, and continued to be for centuries, a very flourishing town, and the principal seat of the clothing trade, by the removal of which into the counties of Gloucester and Somerset, within the last fifty years, its trading importance has been almost annihilated. A Topographical Dictionary of England Volume 1 By Samuel Lewis · 1835 Broughton-in-Furness, Lancaster
Previously to the introduction of machinery, the spinning of woollen yarn prevailed to a considerable extent in private houses ; the making of brush-stocks and hoops at present furnishes employment to many of the inhabitants A Topographical Dictionary of England Volume 1 By Samuel Lewis 1835 The tradition of weaving in Wales
https://melintregwynt.co.uk/why-wool#welsh-wool Historic England, Textile Mills https://historicengland.org.uk/sitesearch?search=textiles Sister Susie's sewing shirts for soldiers (1915)
- BiIly Murray 3:07 |
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Sewing Shirts for Soldiers: Women’s Work in the 1860’s and World War I
https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/2015/11/01/ |
The Rag Trade, Season 1, Episode 1
30:30 |
The Rag Trade Season 2, Episode 7
30:18 |
Machinery & Jobs
Ancestry Images
www.ancestryimages.com/proddetail.php?prod=d3528
www.ancestryimages.com/proddetail.php?prod=d3528
There were many jobs, created by the wool industry, here are just 20 of them-
1. Sorter
What did a Sorter do? The sorter opens the fleece upon the floor and then takes it to a table or horizontal frame-work of bars of wood, between which loose dirt or foreign substances escape. As it is clearly impossible to make one uniform quality of cloth from different qualities of wool, the sorter separates the fleece into several portions, according to their fineness of fibre, softness, soundness of the staple, colour, cleanliness, and weight. A Sorter, simply, Sorted the wool!
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2. Scourer or Washer What did a Scourer do? The wool being sorted, sheets of the same quality are collected together, and scoured or washed, to get rid of the animal grease. This is done in the dye-house, which forms an extensive shed, detached from the mill. The wool is soaked in stale urine, mixed sometimes with a small quantity of soap, heated to 1200, put into wire baskets, and put under running water, which washes away the grease and other impurities. In the washing of long, or worsted wool, the offensive ingredient in this process is dispensed with; the wool is cleansed in warm soap and water, then washed in clear water to get rid of the soap, and lastly pressed dry between strong Iron rollers. |
3. Dyer
What did a Dyer do? The wool is now fit for dyeing. A distinction is made between cloth that is wool-dyed and piece-dyed. In the one case, the dyeing is performed at this stage; and in the other, it is deferred until after the yarn is spun and the cloth woven. The dye-house is furnished with a number of large coppers or vats, containing the colouring matter in which in the case of blue dyeing the wool is boiled. The wool is put into a net, and pressed down into the liquor. After boiling a sufficient time, it is taken out, and as much of the liquor pressed out as is possible, by twisting the net round and round. When the wool is properly Dyed, it is spread out in the drying-house for about twenty-four hours, on racks to dry; it is then again made up into sheets, in order that the sorts or qualities, determined by the sorter, may be recognised. After dyeing, the wool is then passed through the willy, or shakewilly, as it is called in Yorkshire, and twilly in Gloucestershire. These terms are a corruption of the willow of the cotton manufacture, and this again probably a corruption of winnow, the action of the machine being to winnow the wool of twigs, dust, dirt, stones, and other impurities.
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4. Willying, or Twillying
What was Willying or Twillying? A Willy or Twilly is a machine used in the textile industry, comprising a hollow cone or cylinder with internal spikes which revolves, opening and cleaning wool, cotton, or flax. Terms used have included wool-mill, willow (especially for cotton), willey, twilley, and devil. The process has been called willowing, willying, or woolleying. The 'Willy', is called a 'Shakewilly' in Yorkshire & a 'Twilly' in Gloucestershire. All corruptions of the Cotton manufacturing, 'Willow' |
5. Picker, or Moater
What did a Picker, or Moater do? In the West of England, the wool is beaten with wooden rollers, by women, after which it is placed in a wire screen, or hurdle, and pulled with the hands, so as to get rid of any burs or pitch, or other dirt which may not have been separated by the willy. In Yorkshire, the wool is picked by a boy, called a wool moater. If this be not done, the scribbling machine is injured by any lumps of pitch so frequently found in wool. |
6. Oiler
What did an Oiler do? The wool is next oiled for the scribbling machine, three or four pounds of Gallipoli oil being intimately mingled with 20 pounds of wool. A man can oil about 400 lbs., in a day. A 'Picker', makes sure that all of the burs, dirt etc., have been Picked out
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7. Scribbler
What did a Scribbler do? Someone employed in a scibbling mill where the wool was roughly carded before spinning. The wool had to be passed two or three times through the single cylinder scribbler before it could be slubbed ready for spinning. Carding, Spinning and Weaving by Hand 10:44
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8. Carding
What was Carding? "Carding is the process to which the cotton (or wool) is subjected after it has been opened and cleaned, in order that the fibres of the wool may be disentangled, straightened, and laid parallel with each other, so as to admit of being spun. This was formerly effected by instruments called hand-cards, which were brushes made of short pieces of wire, instead of bristles; the wires being stuck into a sheet of leather, at a certain angle, and the leather fastened on a flat piece of wood, about twelve inches long and five wide, with a handle. The cotton (or wool) being spread upon one of the cards, it was repeatedly combed with another till all the fibres were laid straight, when it was stripped off the card in a fleecy roll.. A Comprehensive History of the Woollen and Worsted Manufacturers By J. Bischoff Vol. 1 1848 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=vU_8AQAAQB
Twenty-five Years' Experience in Wool-carding and Spinning By W. C. Demond · 1869www.google.com.au/books/edition/Twenty_five_Years |
9. Stubber, Slubber?
What did a Slubber do? In the woollen-cloth trade there is a process between carding and spinning the wool, called slabbing, which converts the spongy rolls turned off from the cards into a continuous length of fine porous cord. Now, though carding and spinning lie within the domain of automatic science, yet slubbing is a handicraft operation, depending on the skill of the slubber, and participating therefore in all his irregularities. If he be a steady, temperate man, he will conduct his business regularly, without needing to harass his juvenile assistants, who join together the series of card rolls, and thus feed his machine; but if he be addicted to liquor, and passionate, he has it in his power to exercise a fearful despotism over the young pieceners, in violation of the proprietor's benevolent regulations. The Philosophy of Manufactures..Factory System of Great Britain By Andrew Ure, Peter Lund Simmonds · 1861 www.google.com.au/books/edition/The_Philosophy_of A Scribbling or Slubbing Mill, is used for the preparation of raw fleece etc, for spinning by a coarse form of carding.
In the operation of slubbing, the cardings are joined together end to end, elongated to a certain extent, and slightly twirled to give them sufficient cohesion and strength. The "slubbing" thus produced has the appearance of a soft and weak thread.
The Encyclopædia Britannica, Or, Dictionary of Arts, Sciences ..., Volume 21 1842 www.google.com.au/books/edition/The_Encyclop THE SPINNING JENNY. -HARGREAVES.
THE method of spinning with the one-thread wheel long continued to impede the progress of the manufacturer, when, about the year 1764, was made the first mechanical invention profitably employed by manufacturers in England...The Spinning Jenny, invented by James Hargreaves...was the first and infant establishment of the late Sir Robert Peel (who apparently, was the first allowed to see it). Hargreaves was a plain, industrious, but illiterate man, a weaver by trade, and who, in common with others of his class, felt great difficulty in supplying his loom with yarn. The principle of his invention is ..that of the spinning-wheel; its merit is its greater productiveness, and it is said to have occurred to him by one of those so-called accidents..... Hargreaves had twelve children; and it is related that some of them and their playmates were one day assembled at play... when a wheel at which he, or some member of the family, was spinning, was accidentally overturned: the thread still remained in the hands of the spinner, and as the wheel was prevented by the framing from touching the floor, it ..continued to turn round, and.. move the spindle as before, but in an upright....position The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 www.google.com.au/books/edition/The_Useful_Arts Lewis Paul and John Wyatt patented their Roller Spinning machine in 1738
https://spartacus-educational.com/TEXroller.htm In the Arkwright frame, in 1769, continuous spinning appears for the first time in history in a practicable working form.
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10. Spinner
What did a Spinner do? The process of spinning....yarn proper for the manufacture of woollen cloth. This is effected in two operations. The first, called slubbing, is performed with a machine called a dubbing billy, which is certainly behind the generally improved state of manufacturing machinery; and the second and more complete spinning is effected either with the jenny or the mule. The Encyclopædia Britannica, Or, Dictionary of Arts, Sciences ..., Volume 21 1842 The Spinning Jenny, was so called, from one of Hargreaves' children, Mary. Her mother seeing her spin, happened to remark, "Thou gins away famously!" the word 'gin', being a contraction of engine. The process of spinning on this machine as ginning, the machine called a 'ginny' and eventually, was spelled 'jenny'.
Within two years of the invention of the Hargreaves
jenny we had Arkwright's water frame, and we reach a very important period in the history of modern spinning at which the road parts into two. The perfecting of Wyatt's roller spinning frame by Arkwright introduced into the textile industries a completely new mode of spinning that had not to any degree been in use before. The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1
Woollen Spinning- A Text-book for Students in Technical Schools and Colleges, and for Skillful Practical Men in Woollen Mills By Charles Vickerman 1894
www.google.com.au/books/edition/Woollen_Spinning |
11. Buncher
What did a Buncher do? A Buncher, made up the hanks of wool, into packets A Comprehensive History of the Woollen and Worsted Manufactures ..., Volume 2 By James Bischoff 1843
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=mwJDAAAAIAAJ |
12. Warper
What was Warping? The yarn, or thread, employed in weaving, is of two kinds, differing from each other in hardness or twist; the hardest or most twisted being used for the warp, and the softer or less twisted for the weft. The yarn or thread is sent from the spinning and doubling mills in hanks, skeins, or cops: the warp threads are wound on bobbins, from which the warps are formed by a process called warping, the object of which is to arrange all the warp threads alongside of each other in one parallel plane.... The most usual method of warping is by the warping-mill, which consists of a large reel or frame-work of wood, with twelve, eighteen, or more sides, so as to serve for measuring exactly upon it the total length of the warp. This frame-work is mounted upon a vertical axis, to which motion is given by means of an endless band, connecting the bottom of the axis with a wheel turned by the warner.. Warping is light delicate work, requiring a quick eye and a gentle hand. It is usually performed by young women. The principal care required is to watch for broken threads, which must be immediately tied... The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson, Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 1848 |
13. Sizer
What did a Sizer do? In the process of weaving, the warp -threads are subject to very considerable tension and friction, so that if they were stretched in the loom in the same state in which they are spun they would be constantly breaking; and in the case of the finer yarns it would be quite impossible to weave. A dressing of glue, size, or paste is, therefore, given to the yarns, which improves their strength and tenacity, and causes the minute fibres which, as it were, feather the yarn, to adhere closely to it, so that the warp becomes smooth like catgut. In the sizing of woollen warps, glue is most commonly used....The warp being coiled on the floor, one end is taken up and passed through a hole in the side of a trough containing a solution of glue, then under two rollers at the bottom of the trough, and, lastly, it is pulled out at another hole on the opposite side. This is repeated several times, because it is well known that yarns and stuffs are not well penetrated by a fluid if they are not alternately immersed in the fluid, and then squeezed out again for the purpose of expelling the air contained in the fibrous matter. When the woollen yarn is sufficiently dry a very small quantity of tallow is rubbed over it. The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson, Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 1848 15. Back washer
What did a Back Washer do? A Back washer was employed to clean the wool in the worsted manufacturing industry |
14. Fuller, Tucker, Waulker
What did a Fuller do? Fulling, (also known as tucking or waulking), is a step in woollen cloth making which involves the cleansing of cloth (particularly wool) to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. (wiki) Fuller's Soap, was a harsh cleansing product, used by a Fuller
The method of cleaning or scouring....in the Manufacture of Woollen Yarn. The oily substance or yolk of the
wool has the property of combining with a species of clayey earth, called fuller's earth, which, for the sake of economy, is used by the fullers instead of soap. The brilliant white appearance of wool which is required in some manufactures, is produced by the vapour of burning sulphur, or by steeping in a solution of sulphurous acid. The usual method of sulphuring, as it is called, is to expose the wool, in a very close apartment, to the vapour of burning sulphur.........The sulphurous acid vapour leaves a rough, harsh feel upon the wool, removed by washing in water, slightly impregnated with soap. The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson, Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 1848
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16. Mocado weaver
What did a Mocado Weaver do? A weaver of woolen pile cloth called mock or imitation velvet, used for making coats and other clothing. |
17. Scavenger
What did a Scavenger do? In the textile industry, the scavenger, a little boy or girl, crawls occasionally beneath the mule when it is at rest, and cleans the mechanism from superfluous oil, dust and dirt. The youngest children in textile factories were usually employed as Scavengers & Piecers
http://spartacus-educational.com 18. Tozer
What did a Tozer do? Someone who worked in the wool mills employed to tose or tease the cloth |
19. Woolen Billy piecer
What did a Woolen Billy Piecer do? Someone who worked in the woolen mills to piece together the broken yarns. Piecers had to lean over the spinning-machine to repair the broken threads. |
20. Wool Lotter
What did a Wool Lotter do? Someone who bought odd lots of wool and consolidated them for sale |
Worsted is a type of wool yarn, it is more dense and less elastic than woolen spun yarns, it is also more expensive. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk.
The heated comb being fastened to the post with the
teeth upwards, the workman takes a handful of wool, sprinkles it over with oil, rolls it up in his hands to distribute the oil uniformly, and then throws about one-half of the wool over the points of the comb, drawing it through them repeatedly, leaving each time a few straight filaments in the comb. When the handful of oiled wool is thus disposed on the comb, the comb is removed to the stove, so as to expose the wool to the influence of the heat. An empty comb is at the same time taken from the stove and mounted on the post, where it is filled with wool as before. He then takes the two combs, and sitting down upon a low stool, holds one of them with his left hand over his knee, and, holding the other in his right hand, introduces the teeth of one comb into the wool stuck in the other, and draws them through it; by which operation the wool is transferred to one comb. The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson, Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 1848 |
The preparation of worsted yarn closely resembles that of cotton..When the long wool is received at the factory, it
is washed in soap and water. Much of the moisture is pressed out by rollers, after which the wool is dried & spread over the floor. When the wool is dry, it is removed to a...willowing machine, called the plucker. This is attended by a boy, whose business it is to spread the wool, with tolerable regularity, over a feeding apron, which, by advancing, delivers the tufts of wool to a pair of fluted rollers, which convey it to a fanning apparatus. After the wool has passed through this machine, it is ready for combing. For the finer descriptions of long wool, this is still done by hand...The wool-comber has a pair of combs, a post to which one of the combs can be fixed, and a small stove, called a comb-pot, for heating the teeth of the combs. The wool-comb is composed of two or three rows of pointed, tapering steel teeth..of different lengths. They are fixed to a wooden ..head..covered with horn...from this ...proceeds a perforated handle made to fit into certain projections in an upright post, upon which the combs are occasionally rested during the operation. The comb-pot consists of a flat iron plate, heated by fire or steam, and above this is a similar plate, with sufficient space between the two to admit the teeth of the comb. The Useful Arts and Manufacturers of Great Britain by Charles Tomlinson, Textile fabrics, &c · Volume 1 1848 |
A Beaver is, someone who made felt used in
hat making. Cambrian Mills were built on the site of Doldywyll weaving shop between 1902 and 1912. It became the Museum of the Welsh Woollen Industry after the decline of the commercial industry.
The National Wool Museum, located in Drefach Felindre, Llandysul, Carmarthenshire is part of Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales
https://museum.wales/wool/ The Theory and Practice of Cotton Spinning
Or, The Carding ........By James Montgomery · 1836 https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/The_Theory Jacquard punch cards
https://beyondthename.weebly.com/babbage-charles |
Masson Mills built 1783 is home to a working textile mills.
The mill possess a pair of condenser spinning mules. These have 741 spindles being cut down from 133 feet (41 m) 1122 spindles they used to have up until the 24th Sept 1974, when they were retired from Elk Mill, Royton. The mule was built by Platt Bros, of Oldham in 1927 for Elk, the last spinning mill built. commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Masson_Mills_WTM The Useful Arts Employed in the Production of Clothing
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=pTtkAAAAcAA Woollen and Worsted spun yarns
https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/ The American Story, World Quilts, (spinning & weaving)
worldquilts.quiltstudy.org/americanstory/business/spin Glossary of wool terms
https://www.geelongaustralia.com.au/nwm/ |
Merchants' Marks
Merchant’s marks can often be mistaken for mason’s marks, and are often very similar in style and composition. However, they do show a number of distinct differences. Merchant’s marks tend to be far larger than the average mason’s mark, often appear less professionally executed and are far more likely to contain curved elements.
http://www.medieval-graffiti-suffolk.co.uk/page8.html Merchant’s marks can often be mistaken for mason’s marks, often similar in style, but are larger, less professionally executed than mason's marks, and also, sometimes contain
curved elements. Merchant's Marks, often had the number 4 in them, which was called 'The Sign of Four', or 'Mystical Sign of Four'.
The 4 could be, back to front, or upside down & usually had initials included
Why the number 4?
There were two reasons
The common sign was symbolical of mercantile trading to the four quarters of the globe
Willis's Current Notes Volume 7 1858 books/edition/Willis_s_Current_Notes By some it is said to symbolize the mast and
sail of a ship. Gloucestershire Notes and Queries Volume 5 1894 books/edition/Gloucestershire_Notes_and_Queries Lead seals were attached to cloth, used as customs tags, but attracted a tax levy
Seals (for cloth) and merchants’ marks
The practice of fixing seals to cloth probably spread from Byzantium, where they were used as customs tags. Becoming popular by the mid-13th century in the cloth-exporting centres of Flanders and northern Italy, lead or wax cloth seals spread throughout Europe as guarantees of quality. In the 13th and 14th centuries seals on silks from Lucca were single discs of lead attached by means of a tape through a central hole; an early form found in the Netherlands was heavier, and consisted of two discs which were riveted to the cloth. http://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries In early times, when few persons could read, these curious marks must have been very useful, to enable workpeople and others to distinguish the various bales of merchandise, by the particular mark stamped on them.
Tokens Issued in the 17th Century in England.... The Tokens were in circulation exactly a quarter of a century; they originated with a public necessity, but in the end became a nuisance; they were issued by nearly every tradesman as a kind of advertisement, and being only payable at the shop of the issuer, they were very inconvenient. The Government had for some time intended the circulation of royal copper money, as we have pattern-pieces of halfpennies and farthings of the year 1665; but it was not until the year 1672 that the farthings of Charles II., of a similar size to those of the present day, were ready for circulation. Tradesmen's Tokens were then at once put down by the following stringent Proclamation:--
"By the king. A Proclamation for making currant His Majesties Farthings and Half-pence of Copper, and forbidding all others to be used." CHARLES R. Tokens Issued in the 17th Century in England, Wales, and Ireland By Corporations, Merchants, Tradesmen, Etc 1858https://www.google.com.au/books/edition/Tokens_Issued All Guilds were eventually ruled by an officer called an Alderman
A place of meeting was necessary, so
a Guild Hall was erected The Merchant Guildry of Stirling started officially in 1226 when King Alexander II granted a Charter to the Merchant Guild or Guildry in the town....In the past the whole trading community was covered by the Guildry and it guarded the interest of the merchants throughout the centuries, The Guildry and Town Council were accepted as synonymous until in the Act of 1846 trading privileges were abolished.... The emblem or symbol of the Guildry of Stirling is a reversed figure four in a floral design. The Burgh building has a large replica of the symbol carved in stone, and is seen also in the Guildhall. Due to legislation and changes in trading and the need to provide equal opportunities for all & the emancipation of all its workers. The Guildry fades away from trade, commerce and politics, but with the disappearance of the Royal Burgh in 1975 the Guildry and Dean’s Council felt compelled to continue to further some old traditions of the town....
http://www.guildryofstirling.co.uk/guildry-history/ Scotland was a country in which industries thrived, particularly in... Aberdeen, Perth, Dumfries, Dundee, and...Edinburgh, and there were Guilds in these towns with regulations somewhat like those of the English bodies. Ireland was not...rich in industries or buildings, and we are not surprised to note an absence of Trade Guilds in the towns, except a few in Dublin.
The Old Guilds of England
Ordinance Book of Merchants of the Staple By E. E. Rich
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=zWKyA A Treatise on Wood Engraving, Historical and Practical
By William Andrew Chatto https://books.google.com.au/books?id=p3jibVmFU |
Merchants had their own Marks, just like we have Logos today The East India Company's mark was made up of a 'X', a '4' and the initials EIC (above)
A Merchant's Mark could be used to mark his goods and property, in signing documents and even on his personal seal.
The larger Livery Companies in cities such as London had their own specialist mark
A Merchant’s Mark was a distinctive symbol used by a merchant for a variety of purposes. It could be used to mark his goods and property, in signing documents and even on his personal seal. It was a symbol that would have been instantly recognisable, to both literate and illiterate, as belonging to a particular individual. It was, in effect, the ‘logo’ of the Middle Ages. However, it may well be that some of the merchant’s marks....do not actually relate to a particular individual but to a religious or trade guild instead. Much as the larger Livery Companies in cities such as London had their own specialist mark, it would appear that the practice was copied by the more modest local guilds, and at least a proportion of the markings we come across may relate to these organisations, particularly when associated with a side altar or guild chapel.
http://www.medieval-graffiti-suffolk.co.uk/page19.html The affluent Merchant, had his Mark all over the place, even in the local Church
The affluent merchant of the days of yore often expended a part of that wealth, with which God blessed his commercial speculations, in building, or repairing, the edifices dedicated to his service, and his Mark will thus oft be observed to decorate the ceiling beams, or corbels of the roof, the spandrils of the door-way, or the moulding of the window of his parochial church. It may, perchaunce, be seen, encased within a quatrefoil, as an ornament to the font.
Prolusiones Historic: Or, Essays Illustrative of the Halle of John Halle ...By Edward Duke https://books.google.com.au/books?id=OZYLAA The Old Guilds of England
https://archive.org/stream/oldguildsofengla The East India company struck their
own Coinage The Coin Collector's Journal Volumes 8-9 1883
books/edition/The_Coin_Collector_s_Journal The history of The East India Company and coinage dates from 1601, when, with a Royal Charter from Queen Elizabeth I, it’s first ships set sail to the east with cargoes of heavy cloths and £6,000 of specially minted silver coins featuring the emblem of the Queen. As its reach expanded over the centuries, The Company’s coinage became the foundation of trade across the emerging Empire in the east. The only company to acquire the right to issue its own coins, it created the currency system in India which was to last until Independence in 1947.
www.theeastindiacompany.com/coins/history-of-coins Symbolic merchants' marks continued to be used by artisans and townspeople of the medieval and early modern eras to identify themselves and authenticate their goods. These distinctive and easily recognizable marks often appeared in their seals on documents and on products made for sale. They are often found on headstones and in works of stained glass, brass and stone, serving in place of heraldic imagery, which could not be used by the middle classes. They were the precursors of hallmarks, printer's marks and trademarks. wiki
Notices of the merchants' marks in the city of Norwich. Ewing, William Creasy.
https://quod.lib.umich.edu/m/moa/AJQ44 THE EAST INDIA COMPANY - Trademark Details 2020 https://trademarks.justia.com/858/04/the-east-india https://trademarks.justia.com/787/92/east-india-company To manage the risks of piracy or shipwreck, merchants often consigned a cargo to several vessels or caravans; a mark on a bale established legal ownership and avoided confusion. Early travellers, voyagers and merchants displayed their merchant's marks as well to ward off evil....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merchant%27s_mark Merchant Guilds popped up
Merchant Guilds were wealthy men, where
Trade Guilds, were extremely thrifty The Merchant Guilds were composed of a class of wealthy men, while the Trade Guilds, being extremely thrifty...
Merchant Guilds sprang up in England probably in sympathy with those on the Continent, which were formed for the protection of trade, and which had a central warehouse or "hanse," where the goods traded in were stored. All the Guilds eventually were ruled by an officer called an Alderman, and, as a place of meeting was necessary, a Guild Hall for them was erected. The Old Guilds of England The regular method of obtaining a charter for a Guild Merchant was for a petition to be presented to the King by several of the townsmen, setting forth their wishes, which was followed by a formal enquiry as to whether it was desirable or not.
At each of the Staple towns there was a weigh-house, where the wool and other goods
could be weighed At each of the Staple towns there was a weigh-house, where the wool and other goods could be weighed, the one at Westminster being near St. Margaret's Church, the nave of which...was erected jointly by the parishioners and the merchants of the Staple there.
The Old Guilds of England The Guilds in London...divide themselves into two classes, viz., those which claim to have been founded before the days of William I.....and those which came into existence afterwards. The former claimed to be independent of the City authorities, but the latter were subject, like other Guilds in country towns, to the oversight of the civic authorities, exercised in London by the Court of Aldermen.
The Old Guilds of England Similar Guilds were in existence in the West of Europe in the days of the great Charlemagne...but he had occasion to object to these Guilds as interfering with his authority
Wagner in his opera "Die Meistersinger" most happily introduces the Trades Guilds of Germany, the members of which appear to the strains of a march. The Old Guilds of England Manchester Merchants and Foreign Trade: 1850-1939, Volume 2 By Arthur Redford
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=phANA John Lane, Wool Stapler http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archive The Mark of a Merchant http://users.trytel.com/tristan/towns/florilegium/ |
East India Company
Trading between Countries, has been around since almost the dawn of time
There has been evidence of early trading, well before Columbus & other explorers
The East India Company, started trading
in 1600 & became a powerful Imperial interest What started as a trading company in 1600, became a powerful imperial interest, with substantial commercial and political influence which ruled over India from the late 18th century. Tales of misconduct, dishonest dealings and exploitation abounded. The famous impeachment trial of Warren Hastings during the 1780's and 1790's reinforced contemporary perceptions of a corrupt and unscrupulous organisation. Fueled by concerns of mismanagement, William Pitt’s India Act was passed in 1784, resulting in the British government overseeing the Company’s rule in India.
In 1750 British contact with India was still the monopoly of the East India Company, which was engaged in buying and selling goods at small settlements in Indian ports (Britannica)
East India Company, (known as English East India Co. from 1600–1708, Governor & Co. of Merchants of London Trading into the East Indies or United Co. of Merchants of England Trading to the East Indies from 1708–1873), formed for the exploitation of trade with East and Southeast Asia and India, incorporated by royal charter on December 31, 1600. Starting as a monopolistic trading body, the company became involved in politics and acted as an agent of British imperialism in India from the early 18th century to the mid-19th century. In addition, the activities of the company in China in the 19th century served as a
catalyst for the expansion of British influence there. (wiki) Warren Hastings, Oxfordshire, England, 1732-1818, was the son of a clergyman of the Church of England, but was abandoned by his father at an early age. Brought up by an uncle, he had probably the best education then available, at Westminster School in London. He had a serious interest in Indian culture and civilization, so after his uncle's death in 1749, he was then taken out of school and granted a writership (junior appointment East India Company), so in 1750, at age 17, he sailed for Bengal. As a company servant, he was employed in the company’s commercial business. After 1756 the outlook was radically altered, the company became involved in hostilities in India, with French and Indian rulers, and under Robert Clive its army was able to depose the nawab (Indian governor) of Bengal at the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Although the company did not intend to rule the province, it was so powerful that the new nawabs were controlled by the company, with servants like Hastings, being drawn more and more into Indian politics. Serving as the company’s representative at the court of the nawabs of Bengal from 1758 to 1761, then on the company’s Council, then, the controlling body for its affairs in Bengal, from 1761 to 1764. Due to bitter disputes within the Council, he resigned from the company’s service and returned to England in 1765. Four years later, in 1769 he served again in India, and appointed as second in Council in Madras. Two years later being sent back to Bengal as governor in charge of the company’s affairs. Hastings also became the first de facto Governor-General of India from 1774 to 1785
The Company was involved not only in trading, but also politics & wars
The Battle of Plassey, fought in north-eastern India 1757. Troops of the British East India Company, led by Robert Clive, against the forces of the last Nawab of Bengal, and his French allies. Clive's victory led to the British becoming the greatest economic & military power in India
https://collection.nam.ac.uk/detail.php?acc=1968 After the Battle of Plassey, Bengal, had dramatically changed. Bengal powered over the British, who were also virtually its legal rulers, being granted in 1765, the powers called the dewanee by the Mughal emperor, but Indian officials, still conducted business of government with limited European involvement. Hastings recognized that the British must make their power effective, involving themselves more closely with the Indian government. Bengal needed to be governed in strictly traditional ways, its people not to be disturbed by innovation. In what was to be the most constructive period of his administration, from 1772 to 1774, Hastings brought the central government from the nawab’s court, to the British settlement in Calcutta under British control, remodeling the system throughout Bengal, experimenting with bringing the collection of taxation under effective supervision. In 1774 Hastings’s acquired the new title of governor-general, with new responsibilities for supervising other British settlements in India, but these powers had to be shared with a Supreme Council of four others, three of them, new to India. The new councillors, quarreled with Hastings. The quarrel between the new councillors and Hastings paralyzed the government of Bengal and produced a number of squalid episodes in which the newcomers, to discredit Hastings at home, encouraged Indians to bring accusations of malpractices against him.
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Warren-Hastings Acts from 1834 to 1853 By Bengal (India). Government, Richard Clarke
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=SWoZ The Central Administration of the East India Company, 1773-1834 By Bankey Bihari Misra https://books.google.com.au/books?id=FqHnAAAAIA National Library of India
https://ndl.iitkgp.ac.in/result?q={%22t%22: Information Management in Archives and LibrariesBy A.R. Singh The National Archives of India has published a number of documentsbfor use and information of research scholars andbothers. Some of the notable publications are (i) Register of Private Records, (ii) Descriptive List of Secret Department Records, (iii) Descriptive List of Persian Correspondence, (iv) Guide to the Records in the National Archives of India, (v) Catalogue of Historical Maps of Survey of India (1700-1900), (vi) Catalogue of the Memoirs, (vii) Guide to the source of Asian History, (viii) Calendar of Acquired Documents, (ix) Annual Reports of National Archives, (x)bPatriotic Poetry and Writing banned by the Raj, (xi) Resolutions of Indian Historical Records Commission, (xii) Selections from Educational Records, (xiii) Index to the press list of the Public Department Records, (xiv) Fort William India House correspondence. https://books.google.com.au/books?id=UWiHjAK East India Company, men spent years overseas in it's service. Though many perished under harsh conditions, some did return home. These men were mockingly nicknamed “nabobs” and were seen as different.
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The act of 1813 broke the company’s trade monopoly and allowed missionaries to enter British India. The act of 1833 ended the company’s trade, and that of 1853 ended the company’s patronage. The act of 1858 transferred most of the company’s powers to the crown. The acts of 1919 and 1935 were comprehensive enactments, the former giving legal expression to the Montagu-Chelmsford
reforms and the latter to the results of constitutional discussions in 1930–33. https://www.britannica.com The East India Company had substantial commercial and political influence which ruled over India from the late 18th century
Inglorious Empire: what the British did to India By Shashi Tharoor
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=KEwsDw British Rule in India By Pandit Sunderlal https://books.google.com.au/books?id=XcpmDwAAQ India and the British Empire edited by Douglas M. Peers, Nandini Gooptu https://books.google.com.au/books?id=jd0WDgA The Black Hole of Empire: History of a Global Practice of Power https://books.google.com.au/books?id=nG The British had a trading place at Calcutta in the 1690's, they built Fort William, to guard it
The British had established a port and trading base at Calcutta in the 1690's and built Fort William to guard it.
This offended the new Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-ud-daula, who succeeded his grandfather in the capital of Murshidabad in 1756. He sent orders to the governor of Calcutta to stop the work on the fortifications and when the British took no notice, the nawab marched on Calcutta with a massive army, said to have numbered 50,000 men with 500 elephants and fifty cannon.....The governor and many of his staff and the British residents ran for safety to the ships in the harbour, leaving women and children behind and a garrison of only 170 English soldiers to defend the fort under the command of John Zephaniah Holwell, the Company’s zemindar (Indian land owner), responsible for tax collection and keeping law and order. Holwell had no military experience, the situation was hopeless in any case and by the afternoon he was forced to surrender. https://www.historytoday.com/archive/black-hole The Nawab of Bengal, offended by the British fortification in Calcutta, marched through with a massive army
The British Governor & other British, fled, leaving 170 soldiers to defend the Fort, who were forced to surrender
146 British prisoners, including two women, spent the night in the 'Black Hole', with suffocating heat & little water, only 23 survived
That night (of the surrender), as he recorded, there occurred a horror which became a legend in the history of the Raj. A total of 146 British prisoners, including two women and several wounded men, and Holwell himself, were herded at sword-point for the night into the fort’s ‘black hole’, a little lock-up the British had built for minor offenders. It measured only 18ft by 14ft 10in and had two small windows. The heat at that time of year was suffocating and the prisoners trampled on each other to get near the windows and fought over the small supply of water they had been left, while begging for mercy from the guards, who laughed and jeered at them while they prayed and raved in vain. At 6am the next morning when the door was unlocked, the corpses were piled up inside and only twenty-three of the prisoners were still alive. A pit was hastily dug for the dead and the bodies were dumped in it....based on Holwell’s account, the story inspired patriotic fervour and rage at Indian perfidy in generations of Britons. It has long been clear that Holwell’s figures were exaggerated.
https://www.historytoday.com/archive/black-hole Hastings recognized that the British must make their power effective, involving themselves more closely with the Indian government
By 1777 the Bengal government were becoming more absorbed in war... Finally, in 1780, Hyder Ali, the ruler of the south Indian state of Mysore, attacked the British at Madras. Hastings, remarkably organized the company’s military and financial resources to counter every threat. The Marathas were brought to peace in 1782, Mysore in 1784, and the French held in check until 1783. But war stretched the company to the limit, disrupting its trade and thus antagonizing opinion at home. War also forced Hastings (or so he believed) into dubious acts to raise extra funds. Hastings finally left in 1785, but allegations whether justly or unjustly, had damaged his reputation... An impeachment against him In 1786 was enough to persuade the House of Commons and William Pitt the Younger, prime minister, that Hastings ought to be sent to trial. The trial before the House of Lords lasted from 1788 to 1795, when he was acquitted. After acquittal, Hastings lived to age 85 as a retired country gentleman
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Warren-Hastings Quarrels between new councillors in India and Hastings, paralyzed the government of Bengal, the newcomers, encouraged Indians to bring accusations of malpractices against Hastings to discredit him.
Combatants at the Storming of Seringapatam (1799): An East India Company army, comprising British troops and sepoys of the Bombay and Madras armies, with a contingent from Hyderabad, comprising natives of the area and regiments of the Bengal army, against troops of Tipu Sultan’s Mysore army.
https://www.britishbattles.com/anglo-french-wars |
British raj, period of direct British rule over the Indian subcontinent from 1858 until the independence of India and Pakistan in 1947. The raj succeeded management of the subcontinent by the British East India Company, after general distrust and dissatisfaction with company leadership resulted in a widespread mutiny of sepoy troops (Indians serving under Britain) in 1857, causing the British to reconsider the structure of governance in India. The British government took possession of the company’s assets and imposed direct rule. The raj was intended to increase Indian participation in governance, but the powerlessness of Indians to determine their own future without the consent of the British led to an increasingly adamant national independence movement. (wiki)
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From Clive’s victory at Plassey in 1757 to the outbreak of the Mutiny of 1857, Britain’s empire on the subcontinent was administered by the East India Company. A chartered monopoly, the Company significantly expanded its fiscal, territorial and military grip on the subcontinent in the century before its abolition in 1858. By the later 1750's, its servants (the civil and military officers) enjoyed unprecedented access to Asian goods, through bribes, ceremonial gifting, private commerce and the spoils of war. Together with the Company’s official cargoes of Indian and Chinese commodities, these goods helped to transform British families’ material sensibilities and homes.
http://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/eicah/case-studies-2/ |
The ‘Aberglasney’ case study
The son of a Pembroke tanner, Thomas Philipps travelled to India c.1768-70 as a surgeon with the East India Company on completing his medical studies.
http://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/eicah/aberglasney-case-study/
The son of a Pembroke tanner, Thomas Philipps travelled to India c.1768-70 as a surgeon with the East India Company on completing his medical studies.
http://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/eicah/aberglasney-case-study/
How the British managed to rule India
24:17 |
Last 40 Years of The British Empire in India
49:01 |
The Staple
The first known stapler was made in the 18th century in France for King Louis XV. Each large handmade staple, was inscribed with the insignia of the royal court, as required.
Before Staples, paper was joined by cloth tapes, gluing, waxing, or stitching
Before Metallic Paper Fasteners: Papers were held together by any one of the following:
1. Stitches made with a needle and thread 2. Paper or wax seals or wafers (which were marketed for use in sealing envelopes) 3. Strings, cloth tapes, or ribbons that were inserted through parallel incisions made with a penknife, then tied, and sometimes secured with paper or wax seals to prevent tampering with the document 4. Lines or dots of paste or glue 5. Straight pins 6. Strings or ribbons tied around groups of papers 7. Rubber bands placed around groups of papers Antique Staplers & Other Paper Fasteners http://www.officemuseum.com/staplers.htm Stitching paper together, is still used in traditional Bookbinding
The first machine to hold a magazine of many pre-formed staples was in 1878
It wouldn’t be until 1895 that the first stapler that we would recognize as a “modern” stapler came about. This was invented by the E.H. Hotchkiss Company and it used a long strip of bendable staples that were wired together. It was such a popular invention, in fact, that people referred to a stapler as a Hotchkiss.
In Japanese, the word for “stapler” is actually “hochikisu.” http://www.stapleslinger.com/a-summary In the early 1900's, several devices were developed and patented that punched and folded papers to attach them to each other without a metallic clip. The Clipless Stand Machine (made in North Berwick) sold from 1909 into the 1920's. It cut a tongue in the paper that it folded back and tucked in. Bump's New Model Paper Fastener used a similar cutting and weaving technology. (wiki)
The worst thing about Manual staplers, is when the staple jams and won't come out
Staple guns are used to fasten a thin material to a solid backing, like a bulletin board or to a piece of wood. The two legs of a staple from a staple gun are not folded over, but are embedded straight into the backing material.
Large staples might be used with a hammer or staple gun for masonry, roofing, corrugated boxes and other heavy-duty uses. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staple_(fastener) The worst thing about Staple guns, is trying to find the right size staples to fit
The history of wax seals
https://www.stampsdirect.co.uk/blog/ |
The word "staple" originated in the late thirteenth Century, from Old English stapol, meaning 'post, pillar'
There are many uses for the word 'Staple'-
Who invented the First stapler?
A number of people came up with similar ideas, around the same time
On August 7, 1866, the Novelty Paper Fastener was patented by the Patent Novelty Mfg Co. It allowed a single staple to be loaded and was used to mainly bind papers or books, but also carpet, furniture or boxes. Staples for the fastener were manufactured by the Company, in several sizes: 3/16 inches, 1/4 inches, 3/8 inches, and 1/2 inches.
http://www.stapler.cn/history.asp The first “true” stapler, patented in 1866, was invented by the Novelty Manufacturing Company, it could bind paper together with a binder that was like a staple. The problem was that it could only hold one staple at a time and it wouldn’t actually fasten the staple to the paper. Around the same time, an inventor named George McGill received a patent for a paper fastener that was bendable. In 1867, he received a patent for a machine that would press this fastener through paper. His stapler hit the market for the first time in 1869. Even then, unfortunately, stapling was still a labor intensive process because it had to be constantly reloaded. (Stapleslinger.com)
Antique Industrial Hotchkiss Victorian Stapler Fastener
https://www.busaccagallery.com/gallery_view.php Staples can also be used in a surgical setting to join tissue together
The father of surgical stapling, is Hungarian surgeon
Hümér Hültl. Hultl's prototype stapler of 1908 weighed 8 pounds (3.6 kg), and required two hours to assemble and load. The technology was refined in the 1950's in the Soviet Union, allowing for the first commercially produced re-usable stapling devices for creation of bowel & vascular connections https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surgical_staple#History The first commercial surgical staplers were made of stainless steel with titanium staples loaded into re-loadable staple cartridges. Modern surgical staplers are either disposable and made of plastic, or reusable and made of stainless steel. Both types are generally loaded using disposable cartridges. (wiki)
Gastric stapling surgery, also called gastric banding surgery, is a type of bariatric surgery (weight loss surgery) procedure performed to limit the amount of food a person can eat.
https://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/health/treatment |
Document binding with coloured tape-
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Rubber Bands
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Rubber bands continued...
Waterlow & Sons, London, advertised pins, elastic bands, and red tape in 1855. Geo. N. Davis & Brother, Boston, MA, advertised rubber stationers' bands in 1856. (Illustrated and Descriptive Catalogue and Trade-Price List of India Rubber and Gutta Percha Goods) http://www.officemuseum.com/staplers.htm
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Rubber Bands: Charles Slack states that the British firm Perry & Co. introduced the rubber band in 1844, and that a licensee of Goodyear made rubber bands around the same time in the US. We also found refer-ences to India rubber bands among office supplies in publications throughout the following decades.
The History of the Stapler
https://web.archiv Google patents-paper fasteners
https://www.googl |
Popular Mechanics. Chicago 1913
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=8d0DAAAAMB Specifications and Drawings of Patents Issued from the U.S. Patent Office 1873
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=Yso6AQA Specifications and Drawings of Patents Issued from the U.S. Patent Office 1878
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=8do6AQ Specifications and Drawings of Patents Issued from the U.S. Patent Office 1899
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=-GIbAQAAM The term 'Fifth wheel', comes from a literal 5th wheel on a carriage
To be a 5th wheel, means that you're "out of place" or "One out", as in being the only single person at a function for couples
The term fifth wheel comes from a similar coupling used on four-wheel horse-drawn carriages
and wagons. The device allowed the front axle assembly to pivot in the horizontal plane, to facilitate turning. A wheel would be placed on the rear frame section of the truck, which at the time had only four wheels, making the additional wheel the "fifth wheel". The trailer needed to be raised so that the trailer's pin would be able to drop into the central hole of the fifth wheel. Fifth wheels were originally not a complete circle and were hand forged. When mass production of buggy parts began in the early 19th century, fifth wheels were among the first products to be made. There were a number of patents awarded for fifth-wheel design. Edward and Charles Everett, Quincy, Illinois patented a type of fifth wheel in 1850, followed by Gutches' metallic head block and fifth wheel in 1870 and Wilcox fifth wheel in 1905. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifth-wheel_coupling |
The London journal of arts and sciences and repertory of patent inventions ...edited by William Newton, Vol. IV 1822
https://books.google.com.au/books?id=XaFF The London journal of arts and sciences and repertory of patent inventions ...edited by William Newton, Vol. VI 1831 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=XrgA The London journal of arts and sciences and repertory of patent inventions ...edited by William Newton, Vol. XIII 1839 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=-R41 The London journal of arts and sciences and repertory of patent inventions ...edited by William Newton Vol. 23 1866 https://books.google.com.au/books?id=ElUEA |
Today, there are so many ways to organise documents-
Some very weird uses for Staples